We have the most amazing mushroom growing/selling folk at our farmer’s market (Wild Fruitings); they sell gorgeous gourmet Oyster mushrooms of many colors, Lion’s Mane, Chestnuts, Pioppino, Enoki, Trumpets, Shiitakes and probably some I’m forgetting or don’t recognize. They grow the gourmet but they also forage and offer some dried and make medicines. They also work with the awesome spice guy from Spicy Staples (previously known as The Chef’s Cupboard) and offer a Mushroom Salt that I use here.
I get a couple of quarts of these beautiful bouquets every week or so and do so many things with them — in savory stews, on a steak, roasted on rice, bundled little crispy appetizers, creamed in soups or gravy, with pasta…the options are endless. We love them (the mushrooms and the mushroom people). This last week, I made a mixed mushroom risotto for my Mom for her birthday. It was delicious.
For a long time I was intimidated by risotto — it has the air of being a finicky or long involved process but it really isn’t. It comes together quickly, or rather, just as long as anything else if you make food by hand (about 20 min or so). In a dish like this you don’t have to cut them carefully either, there will be no mushroom aesthetic left at the end, just lovely little mushroom bits and a stunning earthy flavor, so the prep is pretty quick, too. And you could make it even more (or less) homemade, depending on if you have broth on hand, grated cheese, etc. You could also add other things — asparagus is great (cut into 1/2 or 1″ bits and added after cooking onions), or pancetta (cut into 1/2″ bits and thrown in with the onions to cook), or chopped ramps or scapes, sun-dried tomatoes, artichokes, or herbs like sage, rosemary, thyme, marjoram — or get really fancy and add crumbled Saffron or Maine Sweet Clams and Arugula like they do in The Arrows Cookbook (where my process and foundational recipe is from).
The secret is the right rice — Arborio rice (not that expensive and no longer hard to find), and warming your broth before using. I also think that if you are using veg broth, it is best to brown your onions a bit — the carmelization process gives a little body otherwise found in animal fats, or use a full-bodied wine (like a Chardonnay vs. a Pinot Grigio). I find that in vegetarian cooking body is easily made with either adding a full-bodied alcohol to things (think brown ales or red wine), added fats (still can be vegan, like coconut oil or olive oil, or even nut powder or butters depending on the dish) or carmelization — all deepen the flavors helping them meld together.
This dish is rich, so it is best cut with a side like Fresh Quickles or a salad with vinaigrette. It can also accompany a side of meat (like pork loin medallions, london broil, venison steak, grilled chicken breasts — something light and clean).
Mushroom Risotto
Serves 6 as central, 8 as a side
- 2 Quarts Beautiful Mushrooms
- 1 cup chopped young onion/scallions (save the greens for garnish)/baby leeks/shallots
- 1 Tbsp Thyme Leaf (and a little extra for garnish, if desired)
- 3 cups Arborio Rice
- 1/2 cup White Wine
- 2 Quarts Chicken or Vegetable Stock
- 1 Tbsp Olive Oil
- 1 Tbsp Unsalted Butter (or if not using, add a little more olive oil), and an additional 1 Tbsp, if desired, at the end (mushrooms love butter)
- 1/2 cup grated Reggiano Parmesan Cheese (or Asiago)
- Sea Salt/Fresh Ground Black Pepper, to taste
In a Medium saucepan, bring the broth to a simmer.
In a Large 2 qt saucepan or deep-bottom pan (stainless steel is best as it distributes heat evenly), warm the butter and olive oil over Medium heat. Add onion and saute for 2 minutes until translucent and then add chopped mushrooms, stirring frequently, until soft and dry about 5 min (they will give off a lot of liquid, be patient and stir, it will dissipate). Add the thyme, a little sea salt, and the rice — using a wooden spoon or paddle, cook and stir for 2 minutes.
Then begin adding the warm broth, one big ladle at a time (about 1/2 cup), to the rice, stirring and letting the rice absorb the liquid each time (but not letting it get dry or stick to the bottom of the pan) until al dente and with a little liquid left in the rice. When you get close to the end of the broth, add the White Wine and the Black Pepper, if desired, as a last or next to last liquid addition and stir in, letting the rice be loose but not too soupy. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese, perhaps an extra Tbsp of butter if you are feeling decadent (I usually am), and top with chopped scallion greens or fresh herbs. Cover and let sit for a few minutes to let it settle and come together.
Happy Risotto!
Rock Bottom Homestead 